Lake Louise features the best cragging in the bow valley (and its probably not a close call).
Lauding:
Spectacular setting
Steep and incut with mostly good holds
Well protected
Engaging and physical routes which will feel energetic for the grade
Complaints:
Physical exertion can sometimes necessitate a shorter day
Temps are usually quite chilly and a forecast with a 40% chance of rain in the town usually means you'll get wet at some point in the day up here
The parking situation is a complete shit show. You have to arrive early and you have to pay circa $20 per car per day. So bring your friends to share cost. Please reach out directly to one of the authors for some guidance on parking/access trickery.
The ranking and climb reviews presented in this blog are meant to be coupled with the information in this book. You can think of this section as a critical analysis of the routes presented in the guidebook
Ranking:
This section offers a subjective ranking on what Brad feels are the best climbs there. For context please remember he tops out on 5.11a on a good day, hates technical climbing and despises runouts.
Wicked Gravity 5.11a
Corner Journey 5.8 (trad)
Reclining Pine 5.9 (trad)
The Search 5.10b
Heart of Darkness 5.10b
Turtle Mountain 5.10b
Black Anthrax 5.9
10-69 5.8
Forbidden Fruit 5.10d
Bone Machine 5.10b not in book
Honourable mention goes out to standing ovation 5.10b (trad). Its an objectively great climb but Brad's fingers were too fat to offer secure climbing in the upper section.
Honourable mention also to Long Stem Rose 5.10a (trad). But the move to the right is very bold.
Route Reviews:
Routes are generally listed from right to left for a given area
0 star = don't bother / 1 star = worthwhile / 2 star = get on it / 3 star = excellent (must)
Hillside Area - Leaky after a rain or in spring
**The Escalator 5.10a: Two pitch route. First pitch is 5.8. Similar in character to Tombstone. Second pitch was Brad's style - easy for the grade and well bolted.
**Tombstone 5.10a: Two pitch route. Great climbing on positive holds. No surprises. Belay ledge is nice and roomy.
*Lumberjack (lower pitch) 5.10b: Tough and bold move at the second or third to last bolt (cant remember). Moving to the right of the bolt line a bit can help.
Lumberjack (upper pitch) 5.10c: I had to back off this because there is a thin sequency move at the second bolt that i couldn't execute (probably due to headspace issues). Fall here could lead to impact with belayer.
**Fiddler on the Roof 5.9: Great warmup for the area. Kind of tricky moving left in one section. Otherwise quite cruisy for the grade.
*The Incredible Talking Woman 5.10c: Brad stick clipped the second bolt. Thin technical face down low to fun secure climbing on the upper portion
***Heart of Darkness 5.10b: Climb thin face which feels quite bold through the first three bolts, after which, the climbing changes to an intimidating adventure on positive holds. High finger strength can compensate for poor technique down low. I have not climbed the second pitch.
Trailside - Expect an Audience of Tourists:
***Standing Ovation 5.10b: Good protection throughout. Load up on thin finger sized piece for the crux. Secure crack climbing with ample holds outside of the crack offering good large gear in the lower section. This is followed by a burly roof move at around mid-height. The upper section features finger crack which will feel extremely hard for the grade if you have big fingers. You can bail to an anchor at ~30m out right if things are going poorly. We tied two ropes together to facilitate top ropes after the initial lead.
Wicked Gravity Wall:
***Wicked Gravity 5.11a: Area classic. This is a great route on mostly positive holds. The crux is a side-pull up through a roof with a bad foot. The bolting is adequate but not generous. Look to the left and to the right of the bolt-line to keep things reasonable. Probably only a single 5.11a move on it from a technical perspective; however, the pump, relentlessness and burly climbing will make it feel hard.
**Pub Night 5.6 (gear): Pleasant climb. Brought up a single rack. It felt hard for the grade so don't underestimate it or push your limits on it.
Outhouse Main:
*Rolling Stone 5.10c (gear): This can be top-roped from the public enemy anchor using some cams on lower to directionalize the rope. Its a worthwhile climb but would appear to be a scary lead.
*Public Enemy 5.10a: Enjoyable face climbing on polished rock up to a roof at the top.
*Mardi Gras 5.11a: This route can be top-roped by leading turtle mountain and then moving slightly right to the mardi gras anchor. This felt like a really tough climb with technical and slippery footwork at mid-height - couldn't really climb through this with any sort of style. Positive and enjoyable climbing on upper half.
***Turtle Mountain 5.10b: Lower angle moves, then over an arete to a face crux, followed by burly climbing to the anchor. Crux is thoughtful and specific, I find staying low helps unlock things.
Outhouse Left:
***Bone Machine 5.10b: This route is not in the book. Pictures can be found on "the crag website". It can be done as two pitches. The first pitch is ~5.8 with an engaging little roof. The second pitch is burly and thoughtful climbing up a corner system with 2-3 roofs. The second pitch feels a little grubby but the rock is solid.
***Corner's Inquest 5.4 (gear): Many bow valley climbers will have fond memories of this as their first gear lead. Long climb on positive holds with good gear (taking a variety of sizes) all the way up.
**The next collection of routes (to the left of Corner's Inquest) are all bolted moderate routes. They are a tad non-descript but are enjoyable and well protected. They include My Little Pony 5.5, Men With Brooms 5.6, School of Rock 5.7, Neverland 5.8 and Graveside Humour 5.4 (which is an upper pitch).
Dance with Me 5.8 (gear): I wouldn't recommend this route. It felt dirty, had a loose block and because of the long length has a lot of fooling around. Otherwise this route is well protected with a predisposition for big cams. It follows an interesting corner with a variety of moves including stemming, laybacks and jamming. Tying two ropes together can facilitate a top rope experience after the initial lead.
*Exquisite Corpse 5.9 (gear): Great route up a well protected finger crack. Bold move with thin gear at mid-height. A tad short tho but worthwhile.
The Amphitheatre:
***Corner Journey 5.8 (gear): A super elegant corner taking great gear the whole way. You can stop at an anchor mid-height if you start feeling lean on gear. Predisposition to bigger cams. A decent candidate for the budding 5.8 gear leader. Bring up your second for cleaning and then two raps will get you down. Rapping thru mammary lane is a more fall-line rappel.
Mammary Lane 5.10b: This is an irritating climb with a very difficult start. The upper section has a bunch of awkward leftward movement. Its not great for a second who is pushing their limit at the grade because of the swing potential. The main benefit of doing this climb is to facilitate a top-rope experience for the next route.
***I Hear My Train a Comin 5.10c (gear): The is an excellent and energetic climb on secure holds . Its overhanging most of the way but eases somewhat at the top. You can top rope it from the above route with some cams for directionalization. It does look like it takes good gear the whole way; but, placements would be from very energetic stances.
***Long Stem Rose 5.10a (gear): Rope management on this route is vital to avoid drag! Otherwise this is an elegant route with a variety of moves. The lower section is a lower angled corner taking thin gear up to a mid-height anchor. Then make an exposed, bold and scary traverse out right. EXTEND YOUR PIECES THROUGH HERE. Protection is somewhat scanty in this section. After you turn the corner, proceed through some energetic stemming and then overhanging jugs to the top. The upper section takes larger cams than the lower.
Violet Hour 5.10b (gear): Tough route. We couldn't make it to the top on lead. Had to strand a green cam before crux move at circa 10m. It looks like you could get to this anchor by climbing long stem rose; however, we have yet to try this.
Election Night 5.6 (gear): This is an ok route requiring larger gear. I've had better. You can top rope the next route which is R-rated by climbing this.
Imaginary Grace 5.8 (gear): Its ok I guess.
**Imaginary Face 5.9: Pleasant climbing up a steep wall with good holds.
*Propeller 5.7 (gear): I climbed this a while ago and it doesn't stand out. I think I remember it being somewhat hard for the grade and a little scary.
**FNG 5.8: Pleasant and well protected climb.
Liquid Sky Wall:
*Youthanism 5.8: Access route to the ledge for reclining pine and the search. Decent climb in its own right if you're in the area.
Reclining Pine Direct Start 5.10a (gear): Access route to aforementioned ledge. I wouldn't climb it again.
***The Search 5.10b: Begins from the ledge. Helpful to bring a stick-clip up for the second bolt because of a somewhat bold hand traverse at the start. This climb offers a pumpy experience on big but sloper-style holds. Make sure to try climbing with your feet and make sure to use rest stances for best results. Probably not a single move of 5.10b on it; but, the route will feel like a 5.10b holistically by the time you get to the anchor.
***Reclining Pine 5.9 (gear): Begins from the ledge. An excellent climb that takes good gear. Tricky moves for the grade in a couple of places. Quite burly and energetic through a couple of roofs.
Pond Area: Could be an amphibious approach depending on water levels
Genius 5.8 (gear): Scramble up to a high grassy ledge to start (this can be rappelled on the way down). This climb is dirty and awkward but has some unique moves with ultimately good protection. The primary reason to do this climb is to access the anchor for the next route to facilitate a top rope experience.
***Forbidden Fruit 5.10d: We haven't led this route but we have top roped it via the previous climb. Bolting looks generous where it counts. Very difficult start, then eases off through a series of energetic roofs and then just when you are feeling tired the fun begins. Channel your inner thug by pulling thin, burly and steep (but secure) moves for the last 7-10m to the anchor.
***10-69 5.8: Excellent climb in a great location up a steep wall. Never desperate but always engaging. Brad's partner's first outdoor lead ! Good stances for clipping and secure climbing. You may have to get your feet wet to get to the route in certain water levels.
Headbanger 5.10d: This is a short climb that we top roped from the 10-69 anchor. Its ok but i wouldn't bother with it unless you need the exercise.
Blob Rock:
***Castle Anthrax 5.9: Steep route with good positive holds to the top. Well protected and enjoyable.
***The Black Night 5.10a: As above but slightly harder and more interesting.
**Latest Squeeze 5.10d: Similar to the first two but harder still. We hung a top rope by accessing this anchor from the previous climb so we didn't have to lead it.
*If In Doubt 5.9: Move left instead of straight up. Fairly interesting although not overly memorable.
*Crowded House 5.10c: Tough start over a burly roof and then onto the face. Pleasant face climbing to a hard move near the top. This route feels quite hard for the grade.
Please check back with this blog for a post on itinerary suggestions on how to optimize your climbing day at Lake Louise for efficiency and to limit moving around.
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