Many contributors on mountain project boast about linking pitches and doing the climb in as little as four pitches. However, we decided to be bold and exercise the prissy option of splitting the climb into as many pitches as possible
This is our second favourite climb in black velvet canyon after epinephrine. Epinephrine is a big scary climb with tough chimneys so we hired a guide for that one. Sour Mash we pulled off on our own.
Laudable Elements:
Steep with great positions
Variety of moves and styles
Straightforward route finding
Complaints:
Long 5.9 gear only pitch with a slight runout moving from right crack to left crack
Slabby foot at ~3 bolt on upper 5.9+ pitch
Tops out with a hanging belay (anything otherwise would be off-brand for a urioste classic tho)
Tips for the prissy climbers
This climb can be split up into multiple short pitches to make it feel more chill
Prissy Climbers Pitch 1: 5.8 layback to the rappel anchor on a nice ledge. The layback was tricky but not too bad. It protected well. Lots of fearmongering on mountain project related to this pitch that was unjustified.
Prissy Climbers Pitch 2: 5.10a layback into a leftward bolt protected face traverse. Then continued up to a tree belay. Tough pitch but true to the grade.
Prissy Climbers Pitch 3: Pull 5.8ish roof and face climb to rappel anchor. Sharp turn right to get to the anchor.
Prissy Climbers Pitch 4: Continue up non-descript but enjoyable face climbing to another fixed anchor.
Prissy Climbers Pitch 5: 5.7 crack with ample face holds. This is a good place to swing leads as it eases the second climber into it and helps build confidence.
Prissy Climbers Pitch 6: 5.9 45m crack with face holds. This was a tough lead for Brad as he despises long pitches and mild runouts. Easy climbing for the first 25m so spread out the gear. The move from right crack to left crack has no bolts with thin gear but good gear slightly below your feet (scary stuff). Managed to plug in a nut between a solid number 3 cam and the anchor for the crux at the top of the pitch.
Prissy Climbers Pitch 7: 5.10a money pitch. Crack with comically thin face moves. Well bolted and opportunities for thin gear. Amazing lay-back into hand-jam sequences gets you to big holds and a mild but non-threating runout to the anchor.
Prissy Climbers Pitch 8: Book calls this 5.9+. There's an honest 10a move in it though with a slabby foot.
Rappel: We rappelled with double ropes over the exciting roof from fiddler on the roof fame
Stay Tuned for more updates on black velvet canyon classics !!!
Epinephrine, frogland, dream of wild turkeys and more
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